The white wines of Friuli’s Carso region, grown on a wind-battered plateau overlooking the Adriatic city of Trieste, remind me of Chablis in that it’s easy to forget the grape variety when there is such a strong soil signature. In this bottling from Friuli all-star Edi Kante, Malvasia Istriana’s trademark notes of white pepper and aromatic herbs take a back seat to the purity and precision conferred by its cool, stony terroir. You may also find subtle hints of orange blossom, a whisper of lemon oil, and a creamy note punctuated by a salinity that will make you salivate.
This wine is designed for simply prepared seafood, but you’ll have trouble finding a better partner for warm Castelvetrano olives marinated with citrus zest and herbs.
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