Stephane Riffault, Claude Riffault's son, is turning out Sancerre bottlings that are the envy of many top producers. Stephane studied in Beaune and then learned with Olivier Leflaive in Burgundy. After his time in Burgundy, the vintner went to Bordeaux, where he stayed for some years at Chateau Angelus, and returned to Sancerre in 2001. When his father Claude retired, Stephane took over the winery, and converted the vineyards to organic and biodynamic. He has become one of the most sought-after producers in the region.\n\nLa Noue parcel is made up of 7 different kinds of vines between 8 and 56 years old – they are planted in clay-chalk and kimmeridgian marl soils. This is one of the closest parcels to the domain in Sury-en-Vaux. There is an abundance of Pinot Noir across the 2.5 hectares of vines, and this is where Stephane produces the cuvee.\n\nAfter picking the grapes by hand, they are carefully sorted before vatting. Stephane carries out only a light extraction in order to preserve the grape aromas, a process that allows the terroir and its characteristics to show through. The wine is matured for 12 months.\n\nNot only in colour, but also on the nose, the Sancerre La Noue is dark and mysterious. Morello cherries, black cherries and redcurrant. Behind this fruity-dark wall, there seems to be a linear, chalky framework. Red and black pepper as well as a breeze of cinnamon fall from the spice rack. Ethereal juniper berries, pine cones and a little lovage contribute green elements. Coffee and very discreet dark chocolate finally round it off in this dark manner. It does not seem heavy at all, just very intense and unusual in its aromatic expression.\n\nStraight as a candle it makes its way across the palate. It seems almost bloody. Riffault presents an elegant Pinot Noir with a lot of breed. It is infused with a pleasantly present acid structure. It silkily lines the mouth. The fruit is now clearly brighter and more acidic - morello cherries become sour cherries. Its mineral framework gives it a lot of stability and the aforementioned linearity. The finish is very delicate and not nearly as dark as initially perceived. Juicy and animating to drink.
