Thirty-eight wines from nine vintages spanning 2005 to 2015 - 55% of them reserve - went into this blend of 57% Pinot Noir, 23% Chardonnay, and 20% Meunier; a nonpareil of shimmering depth. On the pure, precise nose, raspberries and roses mingle with suggestions of woodsiness, honey-cured ham, and parmesan rind before vibrating with white peach and red currant, honeyed cashew, and a soupcon of tobacco leaf and cucumber on the palate - where the tension between its almost ethereal refinement, thanks not least to the unending mousse, and the luxuriance of its finish is simply (or not so simply) delicious.