Domaine Montanet Thoden Bourgogne Vezelay Blanc Le Galerne 2020 750 ML

In Adventures on the Wine Route, Kermit wrote of Chablis: “The white Burgundy that raises the hair on my back, that arouses passions ranging from teeth-gnashing outrage to utmost euphoria, is not even from the Cote d’Or. It is Chablis, northernmost Chablis.” South of Chablis, but in the same orbit relative to the Cote d’Or, lies another Burgundian satellite that is similar in ways to its more famous neighbor: Vezelay. An hour and a half northwest of Beaune, this freshly minted AOC is capable of producing distinct, world-class Chardonnay, especially in the hands of a vigneron as talented as Valentin Montanet, whose family domaine began to pioneer organic farming in the region around the turn of the twenty-first century. The climate this far north is relatively cold and is reinforced by the “Galerne,” a wind that sweeps down from the northwest across the vineyards of Vezelay, helping the grapes to stay dry, cool, and healthy. This climate, a clay-and-limestone soil, and stainless-steel vinification are the pillars of Valentin’s Galerne blanc, a divine rendition of pure, chiseled Chardonnay, bearing notes of orchard fruit, citrus, and oyster shells. Speaking of which, pair it with food as you would a Chablis: oysters, light seafood, and mild cheeses.